How to Weave a Glitzy Scarf with Be Sweet Magic Ball

You don’t need to be an expert weaver to create a beautiful handwoven scarf to wear this fall! All you need is a simple rigid heddle loom (there are many affordable entry-level options such as the Schacht Cricket or Ashford Weaver’s loom) to create a lovely colorblock scarf using the Be Sweet Magic Ball. This divine arrangement of hand dyed boucle and brushed mohair yarns are tied with knobby, ribbon, and metallic goodies. Each magic ball is unique, reflecting the spinner’s individuality – no two projects made from it will ever be the same!

We’ve paired 1 skein of Magic Ball in the Silver Lining colorway with 3 skeins of Mango Moon Di Lusso in Moonlight to create this handwoven scarf. Di Lusso is a sparkly chainette yarn that blends 48% Silk, 45% Viscose, 4% Lamé, and 3% Nylon, making it an excellent choice to use as your warp.

Here’s how to create your own glitzy scarf to keep you fashionably warm all winter long. This scarf would also make a great gift for the holidays!

Start by deciding what you want your finished length and width to be:

Finished Width of Project: 7 inches

Finished Project Length: 64 inches (not including fringe)

Using these numbers, you can first determine the total width of your project on the loom. The finished piece will draw in once you begin weaving, and also once it is removed from the loom and washed. The width of your warp will need to be wider than your desired finished project width. If you wove a swatch, you can consult that to figure out the percent of shrinkage, or you can opt to use the standard 10% if you are ok with an element of surprise in your finished piece.

Total Width on Loom: 8 inches

Next, you’ll need to account for both shrinkage and loom waste when calculating your warp length. For rigid heddle looms, adding 10% for shrinkage and 18″ for loom waste is fairly standard, but note that these numbers may differ depending on what type of loom you have or your own personal preference. You also don’t want to run out of warp length before you are finished weaving with your Magic Ball, so erring on the side of adding more length than usual (provided you have enough yarn) is advisable!

Calculation for Total Warp Length: 64 (desired length) + 6 (shrinkage) + 18 (loom waste) = 88 inches

Warp Length: 88 inches, or 2.4 yards (click here for a free inches-to-yards conversion calculator)

Note: 2.4 yards is the amount needed just one length of warp from end to end, so you’ll need to do a final bit of math to figure out your total warp length. Grab a tape measure and count how many slots and holes are in 8″ to determine your number of warp ends. In this case, that number was 60 (30 slots and 30 holes) on an 8 dent reed.

You’ll multiply the number of warp ends (60) by the length of your warp (2.44 yards) to get your total warp length.

Total Warp Length:  60 x 2.4 yards = 144 yards

Your weft will require approximately 2/3 as much as your warp, in this case approximately 95 yards. Each Magic Ball is approximately 90-95 yards, so that means you’ll have just the right amount to weave your scarf!

To ensure that your warp is centered on the loom, first mark the center of the warp (you can either place a dot with a permanent marker or tie a small piece of scrap yarn at the top as shown in the photo above). Then, use a measuring tape to determine where you will start and stop warping the loom. TIP: Using sticky note markers (as shown in the photo above) is a great non-permanent way to keep track of your starting and stopping points.

Once your loom is warped and you’ve woven your header with scrap yarn, it’s time for the fun part: weaving with your Magic Ball! As the yarn transitions from one section to the next as you weave, you’ll create blocks of coordinating colors in a variety of eye-catching textures – Magic Ball does all of the work for you! Simply weave til you run out of yarn, making sure you have enough space left on your warp to weave a few rows with scrap yarn to secure your ends before removing your project from the loom.

Your next step will be to remove the header from either end and tie off your fringe. This is a lot of like carefully frogging a knitted or crocheted project – just go slowly and unravel row by row to avoid unfortunate mishaps. Using a flat, stable surface is helpful as you slide out your scrap yarn, row by row. Then, begin to tie your fringe in small groupings. Since we know that there are 60 warp ends, it’s easy to divide them into an equal number of ends (the sample shown has 15 knots containing 4 ends each). Using a ruler or straight edge, trim your fringe to the desired length. TIP: If you have a rotary cutter and cutting mat, you can create perfectly even edge in a matter of seconds.

If you have any yarn ends peeking out, use a blunt-tip tapestry needle to weave them in before washing in lukewarm water with your preferred no-rinse fabric wash. Lay flat to dry, then wear and enjoy!

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